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Three years later Lake planted chardonnay, just a year after Murray Tyrrell planted his first hectare nearby.

Both the Tyrrell’s Vat 47 and the Lake’s Folly Chardonnay have evolved over time into the region’s two very different, utterly distinctive but classic chardonnays.

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Kempe is also a fan of racking the red every three to four months, which he says helps to retain freshness and vibrancy.

Instead, Stephen Lake had preferred to keep the barrels bedded down without much movement during a 12–14 month period.

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He also prefers to hoick the occasional green tree frog out from the crushing bin – whose presence suggests a healthy ecosystem in the vineyard – ahead of spraying pesticides …While he is happy to maintain Lake’s Folly’s tradition of preventing malolactic fermentation in its Chardonnay, Kempe has modified some of the winemaking practices of his predecessor, Stephen Lake, firstly by electing not to give the red wines extended maturation on gross lees.

This removes a significant risk of microbial spoilage from the winemaking, and gives Kempe more control of procedures like malolactic fermentation, which then begins with a relatively clean and microbially stable wine.

While they share their remarkable longevity, the Folly is generally fleshier and rounder, more expressive of intense juicy honeydew melon and citrus fruit against the long, fine, tightly integrated, more savoury and restrained Vat 47.

To taste a very comprehensive vertical of the Folly red, dating back to 1972, was a fascinating experience …Kempe is a talented young, but experienced Hunter winemaker in whose hands I believe Lake’s Folly will move from strength to strength.

In the vineyard, he’s stopped the use of herbicides entirely, choosing instead to cultivate under the vines to keep weeds in control.

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